The Journey Changes You

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” -Anthony Bourdain 

Sunrise on Koh Rong, Cambodia

Bryn here.

I apologize for the delay in this post. I updated the blogger app and after two hours of writing a few days ago, it decided to delete my work when I pressed publish. Oy vey; take two, maybe with less detail.

The above quote definitely resonated with us for our time in Cambodia. It’s been the roughest leg of our journey thus far, but I can definitely say it has taught me the most. 

We last left you in Siem Riep, following our tour of Angkor Wat. On our last day there, I did some volunteering at a local school, while Mitch stayed back and ate some frogs (4 in one sitting- ick). At the school I helped the students and teacher with pronunciation. It was chaotic but so darn cute. It went a little something like this...

Me: Yellow. 

15 screaming children: YYEEEEELLLLOWWWWWW. 

My ears hurt but my heart was happy, especially when the little ones ran for a group hug at the end of the lesson.

We took a night bus from Siem Riep to Sihanoukville, which was surprisingly comfortable and quick. Following a speedboat ride, we docked on Coconut beach on Koh Rong. [Fun fact: this island was the location for the 32nd season of the show “Survivor,” and apparently had the most medical evacuations. I didn’t read into why. I think there may be snakes]. Anyways, it was absolutely breathtaking. A lot more rugged and less developed than the Thai islands we visited, but I think we both agreed that it was the most stunning in its own unique way. 

Our humble abode on Koh Rong. It was surprisingly comfortable!

The view from the tent.

While on the island we went on a boat trip which included kayaking through the mangroves, playing beach volleyball, visiting a local village, and meeting some super cool people. Unfortunately I believe the lunch we ate led to my ultimate demise (to come), and after the wind picked up the journey back to our beach was very rough. Sea sickness kicked in and once back on the dock I had no choice but to get violently sick beside two young children fishing. Their faces... I will never forget the look of horror. I’m so sorry German babies.

Keep your feet in the kayak, there’s snakes in there!

Mitchell and the ladies playing a German drinking game.

After some rest, relaxation, night swimming with plankton (so neat!), and the best pineapple, I thought I was back in action. Wrong. So wrong. I developed a fever, and other symptoms not needing to be discussed, that left me pretty much contained to our small room in Kampot. Thankfully we had made it to this smaller river town on the mainland before the trouble ensued. 

Island activities

Somehow in my half delusional state, we did manage to get on a scooter and discover the Kampot pepper farm, the ocean town of Kep, and took a few short walks along the river. We also found a Calgarian that served Caesars and knew where to buy Clamato. It was the cure! For about 30 minutes...

The pepper before it is dried. It’s delicious to eat and is used in a lot of local dishes.

Once the pepper is dried it is picked through meticulously for the perfect corns.

Gravol and another bus took us to the capital city, Phnom Penh, followed by a quick and tearful tuk tuk ride to a French doctor. A few diagnostics, phone calls to our travel insurance company, and Mitch interpreting the Franglais for me, and we were out of there with some antibiotics and pain meds. Thank goodness, as every dose brought me new life.

In the grand scheme of things, this was just a small blip on our travels. At the time, however, it was hard. The outside streets filled with garbage and poverty were too much for me during this. There was even a quick flash in time that I thought about looking at return flights home (thank you Mitchell and friends for talking me down). And then I gained the hardest but likely most valuable bit of perspective of my life...

While in Phnom Pehn we visited the Tuol Sleng (S-21) genocide museum and Choeung Ek killing field used by the Khmer Rouge. How we as human beings are capable of such things is horrifying and unfathomable. How this generation endured such pain and still continue with their daily life today is something I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to comprehend. One mans story explains that his ‘revenge’ for what he experienced as a teenager was to now do good and help Cambodians in need. After fleeing on his own to America and continuing his education, he is now back in Cambodia helping in every way he can.

Tuol Sleng (S-21) was the secret center of a network of nearly 200 prisons where people were tortured by the Khmer Rouge. Between 12,000-20,000 people were imprisoned here. There are only 12 confirmed survivors.

The Memorial Stupa at Choeung Ek Genocidal center. The remains of victims are reverently preserved here, and it was a very shocking thing to witness. This was the only picture I could manage to take. I took it to remind me of the feelings and emotions of this raw experience. 

I have to thank Cambodia for leaving me with so much.

We have now made it Ho Chi Minh City(southern Vietnam) and will be making our way north, meeting with our good friends Krysta and Brian on the way. So far it has treated us well, and has been a little less... rough.

On this note I would like to leave you with ten memories of Cambodia that stood out to us:

1. “Tuk tuuuuk, lady, sir, tuk tuuuk?” You are rarely safe from this question on every block you walk. Their creativity and joking didn’t go unnoticed. My favourite was “Hey ladyyy have you been looking for my Tuk Tuk? No?? Hey Lady Gaga, where you going?”
2. Bum Guns. These are by toilets everywhere in Asia as you cannot flush toilet paper, however, Cambodia has definitely had the most variable water pressure. Always do a test shoot...
3. Laughter. Cambodians have a great sense of humour. They will laugh at themselves, at you, and with you. 
4. For the most part, they speak great English. You can definitely get your point across and have some great conversations.
5. Children saying “helloooo” whenever they see you, and then giggle. Too cute.
6. Their incredible work ethic and willingness to do anything it takes to sell you something or help you with something (hospitality is great).
7. Garbage. Unfortunately it is everywhere and can be extremely smelly.
8. The “honk and pass” or “honk and turn.” It doesn’t matter the situation, if you need to pass or turn, just honk. Honk louder and more frequently if you feel you may hit someone.
9. Weddings. Pick a street, put up a tent. That’s all.
10. Forgive, be patient, be thankful for everything you have, and don’t forget to laugh.